Dates: April 12-19 2025 Location: Denmark, Copenhagen

Traveling as a family of four—stroller, kid gear, and all—usually comes with a baseline level of chaos. But Denmark somehow makes the whole thing feel easy. From taking the train out to Billund to navigating Copenhagen's neighborhood streets, our trip was the ideal mix of high-energy fun, world-class pastries, and that laid-back Danish hygge.

NYC to Copenhagen: The Journey & Arrival Logistics (April 11–12)

Our journey started on the evening of Thursday, April 11th, at JFK Terminal 7. We boarded Icelandair FI 614 at 8:25 PM, which turned out to be a great departure time with the girls—they were able to settle in and sleep for most of the quick 5-hour and 50-minute red-eye to Iceland.

We touched down at Reykjavik (KEF) at 6:15 AM on April 12th, had a smooth, low-stress transfer, and boarded Icelandair FI 204 at 7:40 AM. After an easy 3-hour and 15-minute leg across the Atlantic, we landed at Copenhagen Airport (CPH) Terminal 2 right on schedule at 12:55 PM.

One of the best surprises was how painless it was to get from the airplane seat to our neighborhood:

The Metro Transfer: After walking through Terminal 2, we followed the clear overhead signs straight into Terminal 3, where the M2 Metro line starts.
The Ride: We tapped in using our phones, hopped directly onto the M2, and were speeding toward the city center in minutes—no complex ticket kiosks, no expensive taxi hail queues, and zero friction with luggage and a stroller.

Settling into Nørrebro & First Bites (April 12)

Our base for the week was a fourth-floor apartment in Nørrebro. It’s a wonderfully quiet, authentic residential street that instantly made us feel like locals rather than tourists. Being in a residential neighborhood gave us wide, walkable sidewalks, local playgrounds nearby, and zero city noise at night.

After dropping our bags and stretching our legs, our absolute first order of business was finding fuel:

Lunch at BÆST: We walked over to BÆST (Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København) for late lunch/early dinner. Famous for their organic, house-made mozzarella and sourdough wood-fired pizzas, it was the exact comfort food we needed after a overnight flight. Our favorite was the pizza with N’duja, Tomato Sauce, Smoked Mozzarella, Spring Onion, Oregano.
Neighborhood Vibe: Right down the block from BÆST is BRUS (Guldbergsgade 29F), a vibrant craft brewery and taproom housed in a massive former iron foundry. It had such a fantastic, energetic local atmosphere—while we didn't get a chance to pop in for a drink on this trip with the kids, it looked like an amazing spot to hang out.

Evening Play at Superkilen: After finishing up at BÆST, we took an easy 15-minute walk over to Superkilen Park. It turned out to be the absolute best spot for the girls after a long day of travel. Cameron and Candace had a blast running around the iconic black-and-white wavy lines, exploring the red square, and burning off all that built-up plane energy on the playground structures. After letting them play to their hearts' content, we walked the short stretch back home to Stevnsgade to unpack, relax, and officially call it an evening.

Day 2: Pastries & Tivoli Gardens (April 13):

Early Morning Neighborhood Walk & Andersen & Maillard

Waking up early with the jet lag turned out to be a blessing. While the rest of the apartment was still fast asleep, I slipped out into Nørrebro for an early morning stroll. The neighborhood has such a charming, peaceful energy at 7:00 AM—quiet residential streets, the gentle hum of early commuters on bikes, and sleek Scandinavian architecture blending with historic brick facades.

My destination was Andersen & Maillard (Nørrebrogade 62), an easy, brisk 10-minute walk from our Airbnb on Stevnsgade. Copenhagen’s specialty coffee culture is world-renowned, and Andersen & Maillard is legendary for roasting their own beans and baking everything in-house. While their pour-overs and espresso looked incredible, I didn't actually grab a coffee to go—we had a fantastic espresso machine back at the Airbnb that I was eager to use.

Instead, I focused entirely on breakfast:

The Pastry Spread: I picked up a box of fresh, warm bakes, and the craftsmanship was extraordinary. You could immediately see the immense attention to detail in the lamination—paper-thin, translucent layers that shattered with a delicate crunch the moment you bit into them.
The Favorite: My absolute favorite was their Cardamom Bun. It balanced that fragrant, warm spice with a subtle sweetness and a sticky, caramelized bottom edge that made every bite incredible.

I brought the feast back to Stevnsgade, pulled fresh espresso shots at the apartment, and we all enjoyed a slow, delicious morning before gearing up for the day.

Transit to Tivoli Gardens

Getting from Nørrebro to the heart of the city couldn't have been easier:

The Route: We walked 5 minutes from the Airbnb over to Nørrebros Runddel Station and hopped on the M3 (Cityring) Metro line.
The Travel Time: It was a smooth 8-to-10-minute ride straight to København H (Copenhagen Central Station). From there, we stepped out of the station, crossed the street, and were standing right at the main gates of Tivoli Gardens..

Inside Tivoli, both girls were in absolute heaven. Cameron ran from ride to ride, soaking in all the thrills and energy of the park, while Candace’s highlight was without a doubt the historic classic carousel. Her eyes lit up as she rode, waving every time she spun past us.

For lunch, we headed to a legendary spot:

The Gas Station Burger Lunch: We walked over to Gasoline Grill (famous for starting out inside a functioning petrol station and consistently named among the best burgers in the world). We ordered a round of their signature cheeseburgers and crinkle-cut fries, and they completely lived up to the hype—juicy, smashed-to-perfection patties on soft potato buns that hit the spot for the whole family.

Before wrapping up our time at the park, we stopped by the Tivoli shop to grab some keepsakes to take home:

The Souvenirs: We picked up matching souvenir T-shirts for both Cameron and Candace. They featured bright, hand-drawn illustrations of all the different iconic park attractions—the Daemon roller coaster, the fairytale pagodas, and the merry-go-round. It was the perfect souvenir to remember an unforgettable day.

Dinner at Oysters & Grill & Evening Wind-Down

After a full day at Tivoli, we took the M3 Metro back toward Nørrebro to find a local dinner spot near our residence. We decided to try our luck at Oysters & Grill (Sjællandsgade 1B, 2200 København).

The Luck & The Advice: Luckily, they were able to accommodate us without a reservation, but that was pure luck! Pro-Tip: Copenhagen's dining scene is incredibly popular, and for most sit-down restaurants, it's highly recommended to make a reservation well in advance.
The Feast: The meal was fantastic. We ordered the Moules marinières with white wine and herbs, which was a huge hit with Cameron, and the Grilled seabass with salsa and herbs, which quickly became one of our favorites of the entire trip.
Sleeping It Out: After running around Tivoli all day, Candace completely ran out of juice. She peacefully slept right in Sara's arms through the entire dinner while the three of us enjoyed the seafood spread.

It was the perfect, cozy end to a huge day, letting us recharge before our big trek out to Billund tomorrow!

Day 3: The LEGO Pilgrimage to Billund (April 14)

Early Morning Departure & Train Ride across Denmark

We woke up bright and early to kick off our trek across Denmark. From our Nørrebro Airbnb, we took the M3 Metro line from Nørrebros Runddel straight back to København H (Copenhagen Central Station).

The Train Logistics: We boarded the direct DSB InterCity (IC) train heading west toward Jutland. The journey from Copenhagen Central Station to Vejle Station took just under 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Scenic Views: The ride was remarkably smooth and relaxing. Both Cameron and Candace spent the trip glued to the oversized train windows, watching the scenic Danish countryside, sweeping farmland, and wind turbines roll by as we crossed the Great Belt Bridge.

Transfer Logistics: Vejle Station to Billund

Since Billund does not have its own train station, transferring to a regional bus at Vejle is required:

Finding the Bus: Upon arriving at Vejle Station (Vejle Trafikcenter), we followed the signs directly out of the main station exit to the adjacent bus terminal.
Which Bus to Take: Look for Bus 43 (or Bus 143), both of which are dedicated express routes running directly to Billund.
Purchasing Tickets: You can purchase your bus tickets directly from the driver using a credit card/contactless payment or via the Rejseplanen / DOT app before boarding.
The Ride: The bus ride from Vejle Station straight to the LEGO House / Billund Centrum stop takes about 30 minutes.

Crucial Booking Tips for LEGO House

If you are planning a trip to Billund, logistics planning ahead of time is essential:

Ticket Reservations: Book your LEGO House tickets well in advance online. Unlike a standard theme park, entry to the LEGO House is timed to keep crowd levels low, and daily slots—especially during peak seasons and holidays—frequently sell out weeks ahead.
MINI CHEF Lunch Reservations: If you want to eat at the famous MINI CHEF restaurant inside the LEGO House, you must reserve a table weeks in advance.

Inside the LEGO House & The MINI CHEF Experience

Stepping into the LEGO House (Home of the Brick) was an absolute dream for the whole family. Seeing the massive Tree of Creativity (built from over 6.3 million LEGO bricks) and the life-sized Yoda figure was incredible.

The MINI CHEF Meal: Our 12:15 PM lunch reservation at MINI CHEF was the ultimate logistics-heavy dining highlight. You build your food order using four color-coded LEGO bricks, scan your creation at your table's terminal, and watch on-screen as your order is sent to the kitchen. When it's ready, two giant yellow robots ("Robert" and "Roberta") deliver your food in giant LEGO-shaped meal boxes sliding down a track. The kids were completely mesmerized!

Before heading back, we spent some time browsing the official LEGO House Store, which carries items you literally cannot buy anywhere else in the world:

Exclusive Sets: We picked up a few exclusive LEGO House sets—like the LEGO House Pirate and the Wooden Duck and special anniversary builds—that are strictly sold on-site in Billund. They make for the ultimate souvenir to bring home.
Collector's Tip: If you're a serious LEGO fan, keep a close eye on the set boxes on the shelves! The original set designers frequently drop into the store to hand-sign select boxes. There is no special section for them—you just have to browse through the stacks and look for the authentic marker signatures on the front of the boxes.

After an unforgettable day of building, scanning digital fish in the Yellow Zone, and exploring the Masterpiece Gallery, we wrapped up our time in Billund full of inspiration, incredible memories—and a few very special boxes tucked into our bags!

Day 4: Open-Face Classics, Royal Jewels & Harbor Views (April 15)

Sleeping In & A Masterclass in Smørrebrød

After our big trip out to Billund, we allowed ourselves a slow, relaxing morning at the Airbnb to sleep in and recharge. Once everyone was rested, we headed out for an early lunch at Restaurant Schønnemann (Hauser Plads 16, 1127 København), one of Copenhagen’s oldest and most world-famous institutions for traditional Danish Smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches).

What Makes it Unique: Schønnemann has been serving smørrebrød since 1877 and is legendary for elevating the humble sandwich into a culinary art form. Everything is built on a dense, tangy Danish dark rye bread (rugbrød), impeccably balanced with high-quality ingredients, precise temperature contrasts, and delicate garnishes.
Our Spread:
- Smoked Salmon: Silky, delicate salmon paired perfectly with fresh dill and cream.
- Roast Beef: Thinly sliced, tender beef topped with crispy fried onions and rich remoulade.
- Mackerel: Rich, flavorful mackerel balanced with crisp, tangy pickles.
Pro-Tip: Like most top-tier Copenhagen spots, reservations here are virtually mandatory!

After lunch, we crossed the street to the peaceful public square, where the girls burned off some energy playing in the open park space while Sara enjoyed some quiet time browsing the nearby shops.

Rosenborg Castle & Crown Jewels

Once we regrouped, we walked over to Rosenborg Castle (Øster Voldgade 4A), a stunning 17th-century Renaissance castle originally built by Christian IV as a royal summer residence.

Visitor Info: Open 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM; Admission is 140 DKK for adults (or 215 DKK for a joint ticket that includes Amalienborg Palace).
The Highlights: Inside, we explored the opulent royal chambers and headed down to the heavy vaults to see Denmark's dazzling Crown Jewels and royal regalia.
Cameron’s Royal Craft: A huge highlight for Cameron was a hands-on arts and crafts activity hosted inside the castle, where she got to design and create her very own royal crown to wear for the rest of the afternoon!

Ice Cream at Nyhavn & A Waterfront Boat Tour

From the castle grounds, we strolled down toward the iconic, brightly colored canal houses of Nyhavn. We made a mandatory pitstop for a sweet treat at Kastbergs Is (Nyhavn 40), a top-rated gelato and ice cream shop right along the water. Their small-batch ice cream made with organic Danish dairy was incredible—the perfect mid-afternoon refresh.

With ice cream cones in hand, we walked toward the pier and boarded a classic Copenhagen Canal Boat Tour:

The Sights from the Water: Gliding through the historic canals gave us an unbeatable perspective of the city’s skyline and architecture. From the open-top boat, we snapped photos of the iconic pastel townhouses along Nyhavn, the striking modern Copenhagen Opera House, the historic naval buildings of Holmen, and the famous twisting, golden spire of the Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke). It was easily one of the most relaxing ways to take in the city's sights together as a family.

An Asian Comfort Food Dinner at Chôlôn

After a full day on our feet, we were all craving something warm, savory, and familiar. We headed over to Chôlôn (Østergade 12, 1100 København), a fantastic Vietnamese and Asian eatery right in central Copenhagen.

We ordered bowls of their signature Pho, and it hit every single note: rich, aromatic broth simmered to perfection, tender beef, fresh herbs, and soft rice noodles. It was the ultimate comforting meal to wrap up a picture-perfect day in the city before heading back to Nørrebro to rest up for tomorrow!

Day 5: Cardamom Buns, Experimentarium & Louisiana Museum (April 16)

The Morning Trek to Juno the Bakery

There was one culinary milestone I had been anticipating since before we even boarded our flight in New York: the legendary Cardamom Buns at Juno the Bakery (Århusgade 48, 2100 København).

My obsession with cardamom buns actually started years ago back home, reflecting on the very first time I ever tasted one—an unassuming purchase from the Whole Foods bakery near World Trade Center in Manhattan. Ever since then, I had been dying to taste the original benchmark in the city that perfected them.

Getting There from Nørrebro: From our Airbnb on Stevnsgade, we walked over to Nørrebros Runddel Station and took the M3 Metro line to Poul Henningsens Plads Station in Østerbro. From the station, it was a short, pleasant 7-minute walk through the quiet neighborhood streets to Juno—a total travel time of about 20 to 25 minutes door-to-door.

When we arrived, the heavenly aroma of freshly crushed green cardamom and sweet butter was already wafting down the street.

The Taste & Texture: We ordered a few of their signature cardamom buns—including both the classic version glazed with sugar syrup and the un-sugared version to compare. Juno completely blew my high expectations out of the water. The exterior had a light, crackly crunch, while the inside was a pillowy, complex twist of rich dough filled with an intense, warm, citrusy punch from freshly ground cardamom. Comparing the two, the sugared version had that extra crackling, caramelized edge, while the un-sugared version let the pure, spicy floral aroma of the cardamom take center stage.
The Backyard Courtyard: We took our warm pastries right outside into Juno’s charming, sunlit backyard courtyard. Sitting together in the crisp morning air, eating world-class bakes in a quiet Nordic garden, was easily one of the most serene moments of the entire trip.

Since Juno focuses almost purely on its legendary bakes, we took a short 1-minute walk just a block away to Prolog Coffee Bar (Randersgade 45).

Prolog is a powerhouse in Copenhagen’s world-renowned specialty coffee scene. I ordered a meticulously brewed coffee to pair with our lingering pastry high, and it was incredible—clean, vibrant, and perfectly balanced. Before heading out, I made sure to buy a couple of bags of their freshly roasted whole-bean coffee to pack in my bag so I could recreate a little bit of that Copenhagen coffee ritual back home!

Hands-On Science at Experimentarium

Fueled up on coffee and pastries, we made our way over to Experimentarium (Tuborg Havnevej 7, 2900 Hellerup), a massive science center just north of the city center.

It was an absolute hit for both girls. Spread across three interactive floors, the exhibits encourage kids (and adults) to touch, build, and experiment with everything. Cameron loved the hands-on physics and water construction exhibits, while Candace had a blast exploring the bubble zones and giant sensory play structures. It’s easily one of the most well-designed science museums we’ve visited as a family.

Coastal Art, Kids' Activities & Dining at Louisiana Museum

To cap off our day of culture and exploration, we took the regional train north along the coast to the world-famous Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk).

Perched right on the edge of the Øresund Sound, Louisiana is celebrated as much for its breathtaking architecture and coastal landscape as it is for its modern art collections. We strolled through the famous outdoor sculpture garden—where Alexander Calder sculptures sit against a backdrop of the sea—and walked through the minimalist glass corridors connecting the gallery wings.

Kids' Activities Tip: Louisiana is surprisingly fantastic for families. They have a massive three-story Children’s Wing offering amazing hands-on activities, including structured arts and crafts workshops where kids can paint and sculpt. They also offer a fun museum-wide treasure hunt, which kept both Cameron and Candace fully engaged and excited as we explored the galleries!
Museum Dining Tip: Make sure to plan time for a meal at Louisiana Café. The restaurant there was absolutely terrific, serving incredible seasonal entrees using fresh local ingredients. We sat down for a wonderful dinner right on-site, enjoying fantastic food while taking in the panoramic views of the water before heading back to Copenhagen for the night.

Day 6: Animals, Illusions, Giant Slides & Seafood (April 17)

A Morning at the Copenhagen Zoo & Unexpected Culinary Delights

We spent our last full day in Copenhagen visiting the Copenhagen Zoo (Roskildevej 38, 2000 Frederiksberg), one of the oldest and most beautifully landscaped zoos in Europe.

While we expected the enclosures and animal habitats to be great, we were genuinely surprised by the remarkably high quality of the food options inside the park. Rather than standard stadium-style fast food, the zoo features genuinely delicious, fresh, and locally sourced meals—from open-faced rye sandwiches to gourmet organic burgers and fresh bakery items.

Zoo Pro-Tips & Advice:
- Norman Foster Elephant House: Don't miss the Elephant House designed by world-renowned architect Norman Foster. You can actually view the elephants from above and below through glass domes.
- Stroller Friendliness: The entire zoo complex is incredibly smooth and accessible for strollers with gentle ramps throughout.
- Buy Tickets Online: Skip the ticket counter lines at the front entrance by purchasing your tickets digitally on your phone ahead of time.

Mind-Bending Illusions & The 4-Story BLOX Slide

After spending the morning with the animals, we took the metro straight into the city center for a afternoon of fun exhibits:

Museum of Illusions: Located right in the heart of town (Strøget / Frederiksberggade 24), this spot was an instant hit with both girls. Cameron and Candace loved running through the Vortex Tunnel, exploring the Ames Room, and taking hilarious photos that made it look like they were floating upside down.
The BLOX Building & DAC Slide: Next, we visited BLOX (Bryghusgade 10, 1473 København), an iconic modern building right along the harbourfront that houses the Danish Architecture Center (DAC). Inside, artist Carsten Höller installed the DAC Slide—a massive 40-meter, 4-story spiral slide that zips you from the top exhibition floor all the way down to the ground level. Admission to the building's main spaces and the slide ride is free for kids under 18! Cameron had an absolute blast riding the fabric sack down the tube and immediately wanted to do it again.

Dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar in the Meatpacking District

To close out our final evening in Copenhagen, I managed to snag an early dinner reservation at Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 København).

Located in the heart of Copenhagen's historic Meatpacking District (Kødbyen), the area gave us a great opportunity to explore a completely different side of the city. The industrial, raw aesthetic of white-tiled former slaughterhouses transformed into trendy dining spots reminded me so much of the Meatpacking District/Williamsburg back home in New York, mixed with the artistic, energetic street vibe of the Le Marais neighborhood in Paris.

What They Are Known For: Kødbyens Fiskebar is legendary for serving some of the freshest, most innovative seafood in Scandinavia. They specialize in raw bar offerings, daily wild-caught fish, and sublime natural wine pairings, all served in a casual, high-energy environment.
Cameron’s Big Moment: The highlight of the meal was watching Cameron step completely out of her comfort zone—she tried a raw oyster for the very first time! It was such a fun, proud core memory to cap off our unforgettable week in Denmark.

The Departure: Smooth Metro Ride & An Unexpected Bonus Night (April 18–19)

Our final morning in Copenhagen was as seamless as our arrival. We packed up our bags at Stevnsgade, walked down to the metro, and took the M2 line straight to Copenhagen Airport (CPH). Moving through the city with all our luggage and the stroller one last time reminded us just how effortlessly designed Denmark's public transit really is—no stairs, no heavy lifting, and direct access right into the terminal.

The Flight Cancellation & The Chase Sapphire Reserve Pivot

Of course, no true family adventure ends without at least one plot twist! Once we checked in at the airport, our flight home was officially cancelled due to an aircraft mechanical issue.

Skipping the Airline Queue: The line for the airline's customer service desk to get assigned a rebooked hotel was dozens of people deep—a nightmare scenario when traveling with two tired kids. Fortunately, because we paid for the trip using our Chase Sapphire Reserve® card, we didn't have to wait around.
Booking Direct: Instead of standing in that endless line, we pulled up our phones, booked a room at a nearby airport hotel directly online, and went straight to our room to relax.
Trip Delay Reimbursement: Thanks to the Sapphire Reserve’s built-in Trip Delay Reimbursement coverage, Chase covered the hotel stay and additional expenses, making the unexpected layover virtually stress-free.
EU261 Tip: Because the cancellation was caused by an aircraft maintenance fault on a flight departing the EU, we also kept every single receipt for extra meals and transport to claim compensation under EU261 regulations.

Having packed light made the extra night completely hassle-free—we had fresh clothes ready to go without having to dig through our main luggage. We enjoyed one last cozy Danish meal, got a great night’s sleep, and successfully flew home the following day through London Heathrow.

Home to Brooklyn

By the time we finally landed back in New York and made it back home to our apartment in Brooklyn, we were exhausted—but entirely re-energized. From the world-class cardamom buns and quiet Nørrebro mornings to the LEGO House in Billund and Cameron trying her very first raw oyster, Denmark proved to be one of our favorite family trips yet.

We’re already unpacked, rested, and ready for our next adventure!

Cameron’s Perspective

Overall, the trip was fun, the museum of illusions and Tivoli gardens were my absolute favorites. Partly because they were so interactive, however Louisiana Museum was not as fun due to the amount of art, that honestly didn’t make a lot of sense and was quite a bore. The food was okay, half the meals could be absolutely awesome, but others were horrid. The mini chef experience was cool if you are an absolute nerd about Legos, but I wouldn’t recommend expecting a breathtaking and futuristic experience. Also, don’t expect award winning food, it’s okay, nothing too special. If you like walking than you will love Copenhagen! Overall we walked about 5-6 miles a day, however the scenery was so beautiful with the cute cottages and small houses. The brick roads reminded me of the yellow brick road and the Wizard of Oz. Through the ups and downs, the trip was exciting and fun, I reckon this as a sweet trip rather that an adventurous one for tweens.

James’s Perspective

Copenhagen was a lot of fun and more importantly, lots of activities that were family friendly! Tivoli and Lego House were the highlights for me. I really appreciated the coffee culture and how easy it was to navigate via the metro system without a car. My only regret was not having enough time for us to rent bicycles to do a wider tour of the city. I would respectfully disagree with Cam about the food. There was enough diversity of options and I enjoyed all the restaurants that we had visited. For me, Copenhagen would be a repeat visit down the road.

Hygge, High-Speed Bricks, and the Art of the Pivot: Our Copenhagen Family Guide