Tokyo Day 1: A Soft Landing and Slurping Udon
Dates: July 1 2024 Location: Shinjuku
The Arrival: Shinjuku Basecamp
Traveling from Brooklyn to Tokyo with an 8-year-old (Cameron) and a 6-month-old (Candace) sounds like a logistical marathon, but our experience on Japan Airlines (JAL) was remarkably smooth. If you are prepping for a 14-hour haul, the right gear—and a bit of local tech—is everything.
Lau family getting ready to depart from JFK on JAL to Haneda!!!
The 14-Hour Lifesaver: The Cozigo
We traveled with the Cozigo, and it was an absolute game-changer for flying with an infant. It’s a breathable cover that fits perfectly over the airplane bassinet, blocking out the cabin lights and distractions. It allowed Candace to sleep decently well for a good portion of the flight, which kept the "overtired meltdown" at bay.
Pro-Tip: I’ll be posting a separate blog shortly with a deep dive into our full packing list and more flight logistics to help you prep for your own family adventure.
Referral Link: Many of you have asked how to get one; I’m working on a referral link so you can snag a Cozigo while supporting the blog!
Arrival at Haneda: Seamless Transit
We landed at Haneda Airport (HND) Terminal 3 in the evening. Our first move was securing our transit cards. While Sara and I preloaded Suica cards onto our iPhones before leaving New York (a massive time-saver!), Cameron still needed a physical Suica card for discounted fares.
The "Welcome Suica" for Kids: We stopped by the dedicated red vending machines at Haneda to purchase the Welcome Suica for Cameron (if you need assistance, they have English speaking attendants there).
The Benefit: It is valid for 28 days with no deposit required.
The Big Win: It offers half-off fares for children, which adds up quickly when you're traversing the city. You can find these machines near the monorail or Keikyu line entrances right after you clear customs.
Illustrated minimalist walking map inside Haneda Airport Terminal 3
Waiting for the Keikyu train to Ochiai station
The Journey to Shinjuku
While many travelers recommend luggage delivery services (Takkyubin), we decided to skip it. Since we landed in the evening and wanted our gear immediately, we braved the trains. Managing one large check-in roller, a Yoyo stroller, and a few backpacks was surprisingly manageable for our family of four.
The Route: We took the Keikyu Airport Line (which transitions into the Toei Asakusa and then the Toei Oedo Line) to Ochiai Station. The total trip was about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
The Cost: For the adults, the fare was approximately 660 yen each. Thanks to that Welcome Suica, Cameron’s fare was half-price at just 330 yen.
Stretching Our Legs: From the station, it was a 20-minute walk to our Airbnb in a quiet, sleepy pocket of Shinjuku. After being cooped up on a plane, that cool evening air was exactly what we needed to wake up our legs.
Arriving to Oichai station 20 min walk away from the airbnb
First Meal: Cameron’s Udon Dream
After a quick refresh at the Airbnb, we headed out to explore. Having last visited Japan 20 years ago with college roommates, I was floored by how much easier Google Maps and Translate made everything.
Cameron had her heart set on udon for her first real meal in Japan. We found a local gem called Wano-ya (和乃家) near Takadanobaba Station. We used google translate to order and it was quite seamless.
Why We Loved It:
Location: 2 Chome-19-7 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku.
The Dish: A steaming bowl of hot soup udon—thick, chewy, and perfect for a tired 8-year-old.
The Vibe: The street was lively and busy, giving us that "We’re finally in Tokyo" feeling.
NYC Connection: Spotted a Go Go Curry nearby—a favorite of ours back in Manhattan!
Delicious bowl of curry pork soup udon at Wano-ya (和乃家)
James’s Perspective
"Coming back to Tokyo after two decades felt like stepping into a familiar dream, but with a much better GPS. Seeing the city through the eyes of my daughters instead of a college roommate changed the pace, but the magic is exactly the same."
Cameron’s Corner
"I was so hungry! The udon was so slippery and warm, making my whole body tingle with endless comfort. The flavor lingered in my mouth and the soup washed everything down like a warm waterfall of soy goodness. The flight was horrid and was like a fight to stay alive. But the cozy and traditional Airbnb paid off. I knew as soon I saw the flashing lights of seven eleven I was in for a treat of hot onigiri and sweet lemon tea tomorrow.
Stay Tuned: Tomorrow, we’re up at 5:30 AM for a "Conbini" breakfast before heading to Asakusa to beat the crowds at Senso-ji!!
Tokyo Day 2: Ancient Temples, Futuristic Smoothies, and the Pancake Quest
If there is one "hack" for traveling to Tokyo with a 6-month-old and an 8-year-old, it’s leaning into the jet lag. We used our early wake-up call to beat the heat and the crowds, starting our morning with a mix of high-tech convenience and cozy Brooklyn-style slow living.
The 7-Eleven "Future" Breakfast CONBINI WIN
Our first mission was the 7-Eleven near Nakai Station. In Japan, the "conbini" experience is next-level. We tried the self-serve smoothie machine—an incredibly cool, futuristic process where you pick a frozen cup and watch the machine blend it to perfection right in front of you.
We stocked up on a variety of Onigiri (rice balls) and headed back to our cozy Airbnb. There’s something special about a quiet family breakfast in a local neighborhood before the rest of the city wakes up.
Asakusa: A Breathtaking Morning
By the time we reached Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, the sun was already out in full force. Even in the heat, the temple was breathtaking—the massive vermillion lanterns and the scent of incense in the air are truly beautiful. It’s a sensory experience that stays with you.
We’d heard so much about the "fluffy pancakes" in Asakusa, so we headed to Benizuru and put our names down. We waited about an hour, which is standard for such a popular spot!
- The Experience: The pancakes were beautiful, but for our palates, they were a bit more subtle and mild than expected.
- The Comparison: We realized we actually much prefer the soufflé pancakes from Flipper’s (the spot we love back home in NYC). Flipper's has that specific airy sweetness we were craving.
- The Local Win: Surprisingly, the simple bakery right near our Airbnb stole our hearts. Their bread had a perfect, golden-shattered crust and just the right amount of sweetness.
Beating the Heat: Marine Life & Black Sesame
As the midday heat began to settle in, we made a tactical retreat to the Sumida Aquarium to cool off. It was the perfect sanctuary for "little hands."
- Interactive Fun: The aquarium was packed with interactive exhibits that kept Candace and Cameron engaged.
- The Stars: We spent a long time feasting our eyes on the massive stingrays and watching the playful otters.
- The Treat: While watching the biggest stingray glide past, we snacked on some salty black sesame treats—the perfect savory-sweet balance.
The Lawson Comfort Dinner
As the sun began to set and the air finally cooled down, we headed back toward our neighborhood. For dinner, we decided on a Lawson run, and it was the ultimate comforting end to a long day.
There is a specific kind of magic in a Lawson meal: the creamy egg salad sandwiches, the crispy Karaage-kun chicken, and the warm, comforting bowls of instant ramen. It was the perfect, low-stress meal for a tired family to enjoy together back at the Airbnb.
Stay Tuned: Tomorrow, we’re heading to the Ghibli Museum—if we can navigate the bus system with the stroller!
